Photos: José J Machin Martin, Chris Gonzenbach, Irma Waldvogel, Inma Bergasa
Somewhere far out in the Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of North Africa, lies the island of El Hierro—the smallest and westernmost of the seven Canary Islands belonging to Spain. And it is precisely here that the volcanic archipelago’s largest biker event has been held for the past seven years: the three- to four-day "Rally End Route Europe," organized by the H.O.G. Tenerife and Las Palmas chapters. The highlight is the ride along a spectacularly winding road to the Faro de Orchilla lighthouse at Europe’s westernmost point.
In the days leading up to the event, at the port of Los Cristianos in the south of Tenerife—the largest of the Canary Islands—a thunderous roar shakes the popular seaside resort shortly before 5 p.m. Harleys are everywhere you look. After all, anyone wanting to cruise the remote island of El Hierro must first make the crossing from here on the Fred Olsen Express high-speed catamaran. A flurry of activity fills the vehicle deck until every motorcycle has been securely strapped down to withstand the often-rough seas.
After a little over two hours, El Hierro (meaning "The Iron") comes into view, buffeted by the spray of rolling waves. The island covers an area of 270 square kilometers, rises to an altitude of 1500 meters in its center, and is home to just 11300 inhabitants; it is shaped with three promontories, spanning 27 kilometers in width and 24 kilometers in length. To the east lie the small regional airport and the Puerto de la Estaca, where our ferry docked; to the south is La Restinga, a harbor town popular with divers and water sports enthusiasts; and to the west stands the famous Faro de Orchilla lighthouse—a landmark whose geographical location places it in the same league as the North Cape in Norway, Cape Agulhas in South Africa, and Cape Horn in Chile.
For this reason, the "Rally The End Route Europe" is a journey well worth taking for Manuel Lorenzo Ramón. The extreme photojournalist and war correspondent from Alicante loves riding his Harley-Davidson Deuce—now over 25 years old—to the most remote corners of the globe. In 2019, he traveled from Alicante to the Russian city of Nadym in northern Siberia—deep within the Arctic tundra—in just 12 days. All told, he covered 20,000 kilometers on this journey through ice and solitude. Prior to his Russian expedition, he had already conquered the European North Cape in Norway. Later, he shipped his Harley to North America to reach the northernmost drivable point at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, located beyond the Arctic Circle. Then another project saw the Spanish extreme biker ride all the way from Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina—the southernmost point in South America.
By now, all the bikers disembarked from the ferry; welcomed by the organizing committee and guided to the opening event, where plenty of beer, wine, and local delicacies were served. There are no large hotels on El Hierro; most participants stay in Airbnb rentals, with many based in the central town of La Frontera.
On the first day of the rally, under the amazed gazes of local residents who flocked to the scene, Harleys lined up one after another in the church square in Valverde, the island’s main town, which nestles against a steep mountainside at an altitude of 570 meters. The sun battled with drifting fog and a cold wind blew, making the 15-degree Celsius temperature feel even chillier.
Following official welcoming remarks by representatives of the island government and a blessing of the bikes by the local parish priest, the first group ride began. A rumbling, serpentine procession comprising all manner of Harley models and a handful of vintage American cars winded its way through the town before heading uphill. The route took us past barren, fog-shrouded meadows and into a forest of Canary Island pines, distinguished by their long needles and decorative cones.
Suddenly, the fog lifted and the sun beat down from the sky; we rode to the spectacular swimming cove of Tamaduste and lined up our bikes neatly along the coastal promenade. After some refreshment—a dip in the natural pool for some, a cold beer for others—we headed back up to the Hoya de Morcillo picnic area in the heart of the pine forest. There, at 3 p.m., in keeping with local custom, a lavish lunch buffet was served.
The following day marked the highlight of the "End Route Europe" rally on El Hierro: a route that was technically challenging—winding high above the southwest coast before plunging steeply down to Europe’s westernmost point. This is the spot where the Prime Meridian—the dividing line between West and East—ran from 150 AD (based on the calculations of the astronomer Ptolemy) until 1884.
The itinerary included a visit to the Faro de Orchilla lighthouse. Beyond this point, there is no land to the west until you reach the Caribbean. Over 100 Harleys at the very edge of Europe! This memorable moment was celebrated in style with drinks and an extensive photo and video session.
Afterward, the local road captains led the convoy to Playa de Tacorón, where another picnic featuring hearty chickpea soup and delicious paella was served. "Cool 2", a rock duo that has frequently provide fitting rock-and-blues entertainment here, performed for us. Anyone needing to cool off before the ride back to their accommodations could take a dip or enjoy the breeze during a boat trip through the nature reserve.
The evening program varies from year to year. Sometimes the group gathers in La Frontera, other times at the La Estaca harbor, to enjoy blues and rock 'n' roll performed by a remarkably authentic Elvis Presley impersonator.
The next morning, the group ride set off from La Frontera. The route first led down a steep road with numerous hairpin bends to the Pozo de Salud on the rugged north coast, where a wellness hotel is situated against a backdrop of cliffs pounded by crashing waves. Finally, the ride headed back uphill to the Mirador de la Peña—a restaurant and viewpoint designed by the renowned Canarian architect, sculptor, and painter César Manrique (1919–1992)—where a farewell lunch was served before the first bikers departed the island on the afternoon ferry.
Indeed, the rally to Europe’s westernmost point, held on the smallest of the Canary Islands, is a unique event. So unique, in fact, that it even plays host to biker weddings. Inma and Alberto from Gran Canaria tied the knot at the Las Chamuscadas horse ranch near San Andrés amidst the thunderous applause of the biker community, taking a celebratory lap in their specially decorated Harley-Davidson sidecar rig.
The rally comes to an end all too quickly, leaving us to express our gratitude to Juán Abascal—an El Hierro-based Harley enthusiast who organized this extraordinary event from the very beginning with unparalleled dedication. See you next year for the eighth edition of "The End Route Europe" on El Hierro!
Text: Chris Gonzenbach
Fotos: José J Machin Martin, Chris Gonzenbach, Irma Waldvogel, Inma Bergasa
